We saw Victoria Beckham’s minimalism in New York, Burberry’s beautiful boho in London and now the Italian designers are serving up some seasonal style of their own on the runways of Milan.
Armani and DSquared2 showcased their AW15 offerings on Monday and whilst Kendall Jenner was too ill to walk in any shows, there was still plenty to talk about.
They had a big act to follow after Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana – the head honchos at Dolce & Gabbana kicked the week off with style when they unveiled their collection, Viva la Mamma, in all its glory yesterday.
Giorgio Armani gave us a lesson in luxury by creating what Vogue are dubbing the ‘skouser’ – a wrap-around skirt-cum-pair of slim-fitting trousers made from one piece of material, which were paired with fur jackets and blouses.
Elsewhere on the catwalk were the classic tuxedos that Armani does so well, as well as sequin jackets and even more fringed ponchos.
He also showcased strapless dresses with ruched bust lines that looked eerily like curtain pelmets or bed skirts.
Yet as he celebrates 40 years of his brand this year, Armani proved he’s still a byword for mature elegance.
But elsewhere, the shows proved that in Milan – more is more.
We saw boho vibes on the Burberry catwalk in London. Similarly, Matthew Williamson stuck to his signature boho style by unveiling a mystical and bright hued collection inspired by the signs of the Zodiac.
Following suit, DSquared2 sent models out in flouncy, Inuit-like designs teamed with fur-lined boots, capes and ponchos.
The tribal prints, which came in every colourway, completely clashed – but with aplomb.
Canadian fashion designers and twin brothers, Dean and Dan Caten, who head up DSquared2, called on catwalk stalwarts Malaika Firth and Lily Donaldson to showcase their elaborate multi-layered AW15 designs in the Italian city today.
The pair appeared to draw on their country’s Inuit roots with parkas with huge fur-lined hoods, thong ties and bold tribal prints.
These Native American-influenced pieces were teamed with European colonial-era clothes such as culottes with admiral’s gold detailing at the hems.
Models also wore nude body stockings printed with native patterns to evoke body paint or tribal tattoos.
But hair and make-up were kept simple with bronzed glowing skin and loose hair.
British beauty Lily Donaldson wore a mixture of styles including gold-embossed navy admiral’s trousers, Native American feather trim, beaded bag and sandals and a trapper-style fur decoration.
Slung over all of that was an enormous ruby and diamond necklace and opulent sapphire and diamond drop earrings.
Other looks included Native American blankets worn with cropped jackets and huge necklaces or voluminous white dresses teamed with a masculine admiral’s jacket.
While yesterday Dolce & Gabbana created a memorable show aimed at celebrating motherhood.
The flamboyant duo – who are known for drawing on long-held ideas and imagery of Italian womanhood, whether it’s the sensual town vamp or a black-clad nonna – sent models on to the catwalk with children as accessories, walking to the beat of Spice Girl’s Nineties hit, Mama.
There were toddlers and babies all dressed in the Italian house’s sumptuous silks and luxurious lace.
Called the Viva La Mamma show, other motifs running through the collection were the deep red, almost Gothic, roses (traditionally given on Mother’s Day in Italy), vintage brooches, midi dresses, black lace and corsetry.
The slogans ‘Amore’ and ‘Mama’ were embroidered or appliqued and some dresses were emblazoned with prints of Madonna and child, others were decorated with childlike Crayola drawings.
Models wore their hair back but parted in the centre, in the style of chic 1940s Italian women, and their lips matched the crimson rose embroidery.
However, Salvatore Ferragamo’s collection had a more restrained Sixties feel with a brown, beige and maroon palette and graphic prints on the catwalk – as well as the dresses.
Dresses, skirts and knits were covered in vertical panels and the geometry theme carried through to most of the looks.
Fluid silk dresses were constructed from different coloured tessellated panels, other tunics and skirts were high-necked and severe.
Where Dolce & Gabbana was over-the-top and elaborate, Ferragamo was pared-down and minimalist, helping to set the stage for the final day in Italy tomorrow before the focus shifts to Paris Fashion Week.
Source: dailymail.co.uk
